Tuesday, December 29, 2009

BWOF 8/2006 #108 Jacket

This review should be subtitled, "One for him, one for me." This is the one for me.

Sorry for just lifting the review straight from Patternreview, but it's been a very long day (short-handed at the ioffice, crazy busy and I had a long telephone conversation with my aunt just to ice the cake) and I at least wanted to get the jacket up before next year. Since I managed to get it finished in 3 days, as opposed to more than 2 weeks for Mario's jacket.

So here goes:

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, princess seamed, lined jacket, with a front zip and tulip collar. There are pocket and piping variations, but I didn't use them.

Pattern Sizing: BWOF sizes 36-42. I made a straight 38, my usual BWOF size.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, other than my leaving off some of the details and having a slightly busier fabric.

Were the instructions easy to follow? More or less. This was the illustrated sewing course for the issue. That being said, I didn't think the way they did things made all that much sense and I followed the instructions for a similar Sandra Betzina zip front jacket pattern (V7976) that I've made a few times.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This pattern has been on my radar since the issue came out in August, 2006, but I never had the right fabric at hand. When I purchased this particular fabric back in October, I was pretty sure even before I got it home what it was going to be. I liked the clean lines of the jacket and I wanted another excuse for a zip front jacket.

Note: Another thing I really liked about this pattern was that BWOF very kindly put match lines on the pattern pieces for using the pattern with a plaid fabric. Much appreciated, BWOF. Much. Matching was pretty easy, except at the tops of the seams where they turned into the collar, where it turned into a bit of a wrestling match and I had to concede that good enough was, indeed, good enough.

Fabric Used: I love when the fabrics I use have more meaning for me than just "it's pretty, I wanted it" (though that's a perfectly valid reason for buying fabric, trust me). The jacket was made from a plaid boucle purchased on my recent vacation in Florence, and the lining is moss green silk charmeuse purchased at Metro Textiles during PR Weekend 2006. Custom 22" green separating zipper with ring from Zipper Source. Shoulder pads so minimal they hardly count, but they're there, and I can tell.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Almost none. My alteration consisted of simply narrowing the tops of the center and side panels in the back because my back doesn't appear to be the same shape as the body they drafted for and it made me look like I had a slight hump. Once that was narrowed, everything fit well. My design changes were to eliminate the optional pockets. I liked them, actually, but because of my plaid fabric, they just didn't work. I tried them straight on, matching the plaid, and they went invisible, and I tried cutting them on the bias and they just looked silly. So no pockets it was.

I continued on using Sandra Betzina's instructions for lining the jacket, and I have to say, despite the slipperiness of the charmeuse and the number of new swear words I taught my cat, Lily, this is probably the best bagged lining I've done yet. In other words, there was enough fabric at the bottom, there wasn't too much or too little, it lined up evenly in the facings, the facings were even, and hey, I remembered how to do the sleeves.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would probably sew this one again. I like simple zip-front jackets because they give me a lot of scope for interesting fabrics. This one would actually make a very nice leather jacket, though I think I would modify the collar to either shorten the tulip-ness or extend it into a more "normal" looking collar. This shape doesn't strike me for leather.

Highly recommend - it's a pattern with relatively few pieces, and after all, it does have illustrated instructions, which are not to be sneezed at from the cryptic people at BWOF.

Conclusion: This is my last project for 2009, and I think it's a winner.

29 comments:

Lori said...

Fantastic jacket.

meli88a said...

definitely a winner! Nice job with the plaid and zipper.

SEWN said...

OMG! It's gorgeous. I can't believe you made this in three days. You are manic! But in a good way. ;) I absolutely love it. Beautiful work.

Vicki said...

I have loved this pattern since it came out but haven't made it. I think I had better put it on my 2010 list. Your version is fabulous. Such perfect matching of the plaid. Love it:)

Lena said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Lena said...

This is a greate work!
I love it!

Sarah C said...

I love it. That plaid fabric is great looking.

Shannon said...

Wow! That is gorgeous. Excellent pattern matching!

Little Hunting Creek said...

beautiful jacket - I love the colors

Connie B said...

Excellent! And in three days, Karen? Wow! I even feel like I am a part of the jacket as I also have some of that green charmeuse.

Debbie Cook said...

Beautiful! I want to snuggle up to that lining - it looks so luxurious!

Sherril said...

The fabric is great. I love sentimental fabric. Most of mine is still in the flat stage. Can we see a pic of you in the jacket. It's lovely.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

Beautiful! I love, love, love how the plaids match on this jacket! And in only three days...wow!

Lisette M said...

Really beautiful jacket, I love the plaid fabric!

lsaspacey said...

I saw the picture, and I went "Wow!" I love everything about it, the fabric, lining, how well you matched the plaid, and the design. You should be so proud. Now we just need a picture of you wearing it, ok?

KayY said...

Ah yes, one of my favorite issues too! I love my jacket from this pattern, and your lovely rendition makes me wonder - why don't I make it again??

Maryissewfast said...

Beautiful jacket and reminded me of that pattern...gotta go dig out my issue now!

Meg said...

Ooh, Karen, you rock with these last two jackets. Can I please have that plaid one you made for yourself. I want it!!

Anonymous said...

OMG, that is one gorgeous piece! WTG, Karen!

SherryV

Skitzo Leezra Studio said...

Plaid is my favorite "color" and I would rip that jacket right off your back. (That's a compliment. If I would steal it, consider it good.)
Excellent pattern matching.

Kathi said...

This is absolutely gorgeous!! The fabric is so pretty and so perfectly matched!

Gretchen the Household Deity said...

Your plaid matching is awesome! I do not have the patience for it. Love the shape of that collar, too!

gwensews said...

It is totally a winner! Very nice. Love the colors of the plaid.

Dawn said...

This BWOF is my hands-down favorite issue. I love, love, love this jacket. I probably won't make it because I just don't wear jackets but I love it! It's perfect for you!!!!

meredithp said...

Gorgeous jacket! How I can relate to the long calls with the aunt. (Yes, I should call my mother). Hope that situation settles down soon.

I'm going to have to go back and look at this issue for sure! Happy New Year!

Michelle said...

Gorgeous jacket! I love the plaid, and the jacket turned out so chic. Great work!

Dana said...

Really beautiful - would love to see it on you!

Andrea said...

Wow!!!! You did a beautiful job on this jacket. It looks amazing.

Happy New Year!!

AllisonC said...

Fabulous jacket, the plaid matching is incredible!