Friday, February 6, 2009

The next leather jacket

So I thought I had picked out my next leather jacket pattern.

When Connie was visiting in November, I showed her all my potential jacket patterns, and we talked them through until I came up with one I really liked and thought would work. In December, I went to NY to get buttonholes done in my brown coat, and I picked up the leather of my dreams at Mood. Knowing the pattern I planned to use, I wanted to make, I was able to run around the block to Pacific Trims and get a matching zipper cut to fit.

Fast forward a month or so, and I haven't started the jacket yet. I did trace the pattern, but because there were some changes to be made, I couldn't work up the enthusiasm to make a muslin. So it's been sitting.

And then the February BWOF came through the mail slot.

First of all, I have to say this is one of the best issues in a long, long time. Second, did they get a new photographer, or just finally realize that we buy the magazine to see the clothes, not fashion photography that looks good but shows no details so that we're all sitting on our hands waiting for the line drawings to come up on the website. Either way, this was almost catalog photography - no details hidden under long hair, no clunky jewelry disguising the necklines, no big purses held smack in front of the dress details. Thank you.

Of course, the new nominee for leather jacket was still one of the few patterns I completely passed by in the magazine. The hippy chic section was probably my least favorite - I liked the colors and patterns of the fabrics, but I'm more of a boho-chic than a hippy-chic, if know what I mean. And this little jacquard jacket didn't even register.

Until I saw the line drawing, that is. Those nice vertical - and diagonal - lines screamed to be made up leather. Okay, so it's got a standing collar, 3/4 length cuffed sleeves and buttons up the front (they used big snaps in the magazine), none of which I wanted for my next jacket, but it's also got a lot of things in its favor. First, all those nice vertical seams. Great for leather, not having to worry about the placement of large pattern pieces. Second, of all the bizarre things for BWOF to do, they drafted the sleeve for flat insertion, so I won't have to do what I did last time and remove all the ease from the sleeve to be able to set it in. Yay! The back of the jacket is interesting, with both a vertical band and pleats at the upper back.

The jacket is cut a bit more straight than I had in mind, but I think I can give it more definition at the waist without changing the entire shape of the jacket. I might even decide to keep the stand collar, just cut it a little narrower. I can un-cuff the sleeves and taper them a bit so it's a nice straight sleeve.

It's really the buttons that are bothering me. Yes, I could do bound buttonholes in leather. (I could, really). I could also take it to Jonathan's when I go to NY next time and have them do their super-duper industrial buttonholes, since there was a little sign that said they did leather, but just charged a little more. But I have that 23" perfectly matching zipper with the bronze pull, and I want to use it. Plus, I just think I'd wear it more of it was a zip jacket. To me, that's what a casual leather jacket has; buttons put it on a different level, and while that level might look really good, if I'm not going to wear it all the time - I wear my black leather jacket all the time - then I won't make it.

I think some pattern re-drafting is in order. I traced the pattern off, and rather than redraft the pieces now, I think I'll put together a muslin of the pattern as it stands, tweak the fit, and then redraft the pieces of the muslin to reflect the altered center front so I can do the zipper insertion. May as well get the rest of it right before I mess with the center front.


Meg said...

I love this pattern too. Issue 02/09 rocks! I'm dying to see what you do with this.

-E said...

My leather has been calling to me too :)

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

Wow! You and the leather are amazing!!!

Connie B said...

I dunno. I still like the one we picked out! I must pick up this issue of Burda though!
Adore the leather!!

Dawn said...

Damn you. I MUST MAKE a leather jacket now. Drat. That's probably going to run me a pretty penny.

Gretchen the Household Deity said...

I think using the zip is a great idea. I love those diagonal princess line seams, too.

Berry said...

I agree with the slapdash sewist. This patterns looks great... I can't wait to see how it comes out.

Kat said...

What a super jacket pattern for leather. Can't wait to see this one made up.

Unknown said...

you don't have to run around the block to get to Pacific, turn right as you get out of the elevator from Mood and walk through the building to 38th, so easy. Love both Pacific and Mood, Jenny