Saturday, June 6, 2009

Jumping the line

So much for the jackets. I went into the workroom the other night, pressed off the green corduroy, pressed the creases out of my pattern pieces, and then started to cut out . . . Simplicity 2724.

Which, as you can see, isn't a jacket.

And these weren't even the fabrics I planned to use when I did make this dress.

On the other hand, I'm really liking the dress so far. I'm using the pleated neckline (I like all 3 variations, but I think I have a bit too much boobage for the ruffled variation), and I went for the full pleated skirt.

The next version of this dress - oh, and there will be many, because I love the idea of blouse-and-skirt without having to actually tuck anything in, and I love the idea of a high-waisted skirt without having to deal with the discomfort of wearing one.

One weird thing about this pattern - I don't know if it's because it's a Project Runway pattern and they're aiming for the slightly less experienced sewer, but the dress was unlined. That's an issue for me. When I first started sewing seriously, I would do anything to avoid putting a lining in a garment. It just seemed like such a pain.

Then I thought about it and realized that neatening a garment so that it looked good without a lining took even more work. Plus there's the practicality issue; it will wear better, last longer and wrinkle less if it's lined. And what's the point of spending all your time making something that you're not happy to wear? So I learned to love lining.

The fabrics here are tan RPL from Metro Textiles (I accidentally bought this fabric on two consecutive visits to Metro, so I have a lot of it), and an orange/cream/brown floral also from New York, purchased at a little store on 35th Street called Hollywood Fabrics. I think it's a poly crepe. I'm not 100% sure, but it refuses to hold an edge when pressed and it frays like crazy. On the plus side it's pretty, it drapes beautifully and it works with the RPL.

It was also sheerish, which made the lining absolutely necessary. (I guess I could have underlined, but I wanted to line the skirt as well, so what would be the point?) I'm using the 3/4 sleeve, without a lining, and I actually got the sleeves set in a little bit ago without too much fighting.

Note to self: I hate easing sleeves possibly more than anything else, definitely more than lining.

The dress has a nice vintage touch of having a side zipper, which I turned into an invisible side zipper. It's a little tough to get in and out of, but I saw that mentioned on Patternreview in a couple of reviews, so I know it's just part of the dress and not something I did.

All I have left at this point is mostly handwork - stitching the bands on the inside of the sleeves, tacking the lining to the zipper, tacking the lining to the dress at a few points to keep it from creeping, and hemming. At least I can machine-hem the lining, but I'll do a hand hem on the skirt.

Oh, and the big decision: length of skirt. Longer and it strikes me as more vintage, but it's a less flattering length. So there will be some thought put into that.

And BTW, that back view - those ripply, bubbly bits at the back waist? That's the lining not sitting properly. When I saw the photo I ran back into the room to look at the dress, and of course it doesn't look anywhere near as visible to the naked eye. But once the lining was smoothed down and pressed, it was nice and flat.

So I wonder which one of my two jacket patterns would look better made up in the tan RPL to match the dress I hadn't intended to make?


J. Christina Huh said...

I'm a sewing newbie and I have so many questions. I have this pattern too, but as someone who's only sewn an apron, do you think this is too big of a next step?

And how do you go about cutting out the lining -- do you just use the same patterns, but cut out a different type of fabric?

And why do you hand hem the skirt, but machine hem the lining?

Lori said...

Very cute dress, the fabric combination is fantastic.

Kelly said...

I have this pattern as well. I love your version. It is so darn cute.

cidell said...

I have this pattern too and it never occurred to me that I could use a print! Love the fabric combinations Karen

Dawn said...

Sometimes, only sometimes, I feel like I should buy a couple Simplicity and/or Vogue patterns. Then I remember how horribly they fit. I'll have to do something like that with a BWOF.

Rodney said...
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Little Hunting Creek said...

That's a really cute combination - very retro looking. I especiqlly love the print

Nancy K said...

Great jacket, seriously its a terrific dress and I wish I needed more dresses in my wardrobe, but it would just languish in the closet.

Sherril said...

A jacket is going to look great with this dress. So professional!

BTW, please visit my blog to see the award I've passed on to you.

Rose said...

I like the color combinations that you used in the dress. I'm sure that tan RPL will tell you what jacket it wants to be!

gwensews said...

Terrific faric combination. That dress wil be beautiful when finished.

Tany said...

I have this pattern too! Great fabric combination!

Marji said...

This is the second time this week I'm seeing that pattern and I really like the lines of it.
It appears as if it will be slimming - certainly not "thickening", and, you're pretty slim to start with anyway.
Great combo of fabrics. Enjoy wearing it.
oh, my opinion on the hem? The skirt is full, I'd go shorter rather than longer.

Kat said...

This dress looks MIGHTY fine!!!