Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Second Time Around

Okay, when I make a dress twice in a short period of time, it's well on it's way to becoming a TNT. This is version 2 of BWOF 2/11 #101, made from a black and white border print I got a month or so ago from Gorgeous Fabrics. And it is indeed gorgeous. I don't usually wear much white, as it has magnetic dirt-attracting properties on me, but I managed to keep this dress clean all day. Hallelujah.

I changed the pattern slightly this time around - lowered the waist seam by about an inch, because the blue and white one was a teensy bit high (riddle me this- how can I be long-waisted at 5' 3"?), and I stabilized the neckline with fusible bias tape in addition to staystitching, because it gaps just the slightest.

And it still does, though not as drastically as the blue and white version. I may just take a tiny little discreet dart in each "corner" of the neck, to make it lay flat. Because it irks me just the slightest, and clothes that irk do not get worn.

Other than that, this is a quick and easy pattern (2 pieces - front and back, and a big old rectangle of a skirt).  Sleeves are cut on, looking much more sleevelike on than they do as pattern pieces.  Fully lined, with my favorite pain-in-the-butt technique of sewing armholes and necks together, then turning the pieces out through the open shoulder seam.  Love the technique but I can't be the only one who manages - almost every time, and despite fanatical marking and measuring - to have extra fabric either on the outside or the lining and have to fiddle that shoulder seam into submission.

I cut this out the other night because I couldn't be bothered to work on the dress I'd been thinking about all day, and, confession here, because I had white thread in the machine, and 2 other white bobbins standing by.  Whereas for the other dress, I would have had to dig out the dark brown thread and wind a bobbin or two, and find the brown lining, and . . . it was just easier, okay?


Sarah C said...

This dress is lovely! I really love the fabric you used. Great job.

Caroline said...

It's so pretty! I love the border print.

And yes, it's absolutely possible to be long-waisted at 5'3". I'm 5'7" and short-waisted. It's just all about the proportions.

Also, there is a technique for lining sleeveless bodices without the open shoulder seam, as long as you have side seams and a center back seam -- sew the shoulder seams, then the neck and armholes. Turn it right side out, and sew the side seams and back seam, inserting the zipper if there is one.

Irene said...

Very pretty! For the gaping, might I suggest an "alterations" technique. Thread a needle with double thread. Do a running stitch on the inside of the neckline just about where you have the understitching. Pull your thread tight. You're essentially gathering the neckline - not so much that you actually see gathers, just enough to tighten up the opening. To see how much you need to tighten up, pinch out the amount, measure, then measure then neckline opening and tighten your thread until you've pulled in the appropriate amount. Secure the thread well, before cutting it off. Steam the area. Usually this method can remove a fair bit of "ease" without having to resort to little darts.

Eugenia said...

I love this dress - it is so pretty and summery looking! That border print fabric is very gorgeous!!

SEWN said...

Beautiful dress! I love that fabric. :)

Tanit-Isis said...

I'm 5'7" and regularly have to do petite adjustments... So yes, it's entirely possible! The dress looks gorgeous, congratulations. :)

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

The dress is fantastic! Love it!

Kathy H said...

Love this dress! It looks so good on you.

Anonymous said...

This is a definite winner. Perfect for summer.

I love the "pull the back pieces through the shoulder seams" trick. Thankfully the first dress pattern I made contained these instructions.

Cennetta said...

Gorgeous dress.

Rose said...

You have another dress winner! What a great TNT!!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

So fun! And I love your photo op, what a great location. Seriously, you gotta try the easy all-machine clean finish technique (assuming there is a CB seam):

Sew shoulder seams of lining and fabric, leaving side seams open.
Sew together at neckline and armscyes.
Pull back halves through shoulder tunnels.
Sew side seams of lining and fabric, matching underarm seams.

It is amazing and so easy. The only fussy part is matching the underarm seams, and it just takes one hand-stitch to secure them.