And ironing. Lots and lots of ironing.
This jacket didn't turn out to be quite the jacket I had in mind. I've mostly made Ottobre bottoms before but I've done a few tops, and their sizing is consistent with BWOF; in other words, I'm a 38. So I traced this pattern in 38, and added seam allowances. Just standard size ones, nothing generous.
I shoulda made a muslin.
For those considering making this top, unless you've got little skinny stick arms (the kind I envy but will never have), do yourself a favor and cut a size larger on the armholes and sleeves, because these babies are SNUG. But on the plus side, it's a two piece sleeve, so they are well cut and attractively snug.
The same can be said for the entire jacket. The back is princess seamed, which always helps me get a good fit. The front has bust darts and contour darts to the waist seam, and then the peplum is attached. I was a little iffy about the peplum, but it lays very nicely and doesn't add any bulk to my personal peplum.
I really like the way the collar is drafted. The upper collar is two pieces (collar and stand) while the under collar is one piece (collar with cut-on stand). It works very well, though I think I should have used a heavier interfacing just to give it a bit more shape. (One of my minor dislikes is how large the collar is; if I make it again, I just won't add any seam allowances to the three sides).
On the not-so-plus side, I would draft a separate facing for this jacket instead of using the cut-on facing. Cut-on facings are fine for unlined jackets, but I prefer to construct my shell and my linings separately, and then bag the lining all together. I couldn't do that because I couldn't sew the shoulder seams of the lining, since part of the shoulder seam was contained in that front facing that had to then be sewn to the partial lining before the rest of the lining was constructed. Besides, I like the firmer edge you get with having a facing seam.
Other than having to construct it slightly differently than I like, and other than having it fit slightly differently than I'd intended, I'm pretty happy with this jacket. I wanted to make a lined jacket as a warmup before I start in on the remake of Mario's jacket, and this has got me back into the right frame of mind.
Now I want to go off and practice a few more buttonholes before I slide my jacket under the vintage buttonholer and let it go to town.
12 comments:
I love the jacket so far. The peplum is such a nice detail!
I love this style. I love the pleating in the back, can't wait to see the finished garment
Looks very pretty Karen. I love the peplum too. Looking forward to seeing it on.
Very sharp jacket, Karen!
I'll have to take a second look at this pattern. Thanks for the sizing tips.
It looks great!
I agree with the others and I think I need to see it on you. Looks great here though.
Very cute jacket! What great tips on the fit and construction. I think that I will have to take a look at this one again.
The jacket looks great. I like the buttons you have chosen. Thanks for the fit and construction tips!! I'll be tracing this pattern this weekend so your post is timely for me! I like the pattern even more after seeing your jacket!!!
Its looking good!
So quick you are! Fingers are crossed that the buttonholer lives up to all your expectations. Can't wait to see the results.
Great looking jacket.
Love the jacket. Mmm, I wonder if I have that pattern... I recently cancelled my Ottobre subscription as I thought the patterns were too homely. This is not! Lovely.
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