Tomorrow is my firm's holiday party. While it's supposed to just be a "lunch" - beginning at noon and ending sometime before the bars close - it still involves much preparation and overdressing among my co-workers.
As in sequins before noon overdressing. Ahem.
Me, I'll be ridiculously under
dressed tomorrow, at least in their eyes. Because I haven't gotten my winter dress finished, and I don't want to rush and try to finish it tonight, I'll be wearing my recently completed (but not yet worn) plaid jacket.
It's green. It's red. It has shiny red and brass buttons. It has a freaking olive green silk charmeuse lining.
I say I'm dressed up. I don't care what
they call it.
This pattern is mostly McCall 5859. I made a sleeveless versio
n last summer (because I ran out of fabric before I cut sleeves). This time, I had just enough. Literally, I couldn't have made a vest for Lily the sewing room cat out of my scraps, and she only weighs 7 pounds.
Here's the revised patternreview
Princess seamed peplum jacket with collar, pockets, short and long sleeve variations.
Some variation between 12 and 14. I tend toward the 14 these days, but it's princess seamed front and back, and doesn't have to button across the bulkiest part of me, so I went a little more fitted.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
More or less. The lines are the same, though I de-poofed the sleeves and took some of the cute out of it.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy. I looked them over the first time and this time I just went for it. I did check back regarding the collar, because collar and lapel are two separate pieces, not meant to be sewn together.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved it when I first saw it, and while I really like my gray pinstripe summer version, I hadn't planned to make another. But the last time I wore the pinstripe, I caught a look at myself in the mirror and decided that the peplum look was really flattering and gave me a bit more waist definition than I usually can achieve from a jacket. Good enough reason for a re-sew in my books.
Oh, yum, the fabric. Mossy green wool/cashmere flannel wonderfulness from Metro Textiles. It was in Kashi's remnant bin and it just drew me across the store. There wasn't much of it, so this jacket took some creative cutting. Lining: olive green silk charmeuse purchased at PR Weekend NY 2006. I got the last 5 yards on the bolt, knowing it was a color I'd always wear. This is my second jacket lining, and I think there's enough for one more, if I choose my fabrics carefully. Buttons are vintage, brass with a rusty painted overlay. I buffed them with an emery board to let a little more of the gold show through.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I changed the sleeves. With the gray pinstripe version, I only had enough fabric for the tiny sleeves, and I hated them. This time I had enough for real sleeves, but the sleeve as drafted was still too puffed for my taste, so I fiddled with it and took out most of the ease (not all; I was working with wool, so I knew that I could get away with some).
I also cut the peplums on the bias, because I knew there'd be no way to match plaid both coming and going on the princess seams. Because the peplums were bias and I didn't want them to stretch out, I interfaced them with a fairly crisp interfacing. It also gives a slightly structured vintage feel to the jacket when worn. I also interfaced both sides of the collar and lapel, the facings, the center back panel of the jacket, and fused strips of interfacing at the hems of the jacket and sleeves. I used very minimal shoulder pads and made sleeve heads from some puffy shoulder pads I took apart.
I was actually going to treat myself and take the bus up to NY and have my buttonholes done at Jonathan's. They do the best
buttonholes. And I'd started this jacket before we went to Paris, so this has been hanging around literally for almost 2 months. I don't let projects linger this long. But I decided against NY - because I know myself. I wouldn't have held it to buttonholes, and then there would have been more fabric in my house. I sat down at my machine, took my beautiful jacket in my hands, and made 4 perfectly good buttonholes all on my own. (Okay, so they're not Jonathan, but I'm fine with them. Really.)
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Absolutely, on both counts. I hadn't planned on sewing it a second time because of the distinctive collar, but when I got my hands on this fabric, this was the first pattern that came to mind. You have to trust your fabric's instincts; it knows what it wants to be. And it doesn't pay to argue.
One of my favorite garments for the year, and I haven't even worn it out of the house yet. I'm a sucker for a good jacket, though, and every time I make it one step further along in my journey toward the perfect jacket, it just makes me want to keep going.